Figure 1: Sharpening with a file. (To enlarge click on image)

Figure 2: Removing a nick. (To enlarge click on image)

Figure 3: Experienced axe sharpener. (To enlarge click on image)

Figure 4: Draw filing. (To enlarge click on image)

Figure 5: Watch out for fingertips. (To enlarge click on image)

Figure 6: Sharpening with a stone. (To enlarge click on image)

By Cleve Cheney

What do you call a blunt axe? A hammer. That may be a bit “tongue in cheek”, but a blunt axe is pretty useless as a cutting and chopping tool. A good bushman should know how to sharpen an axe so that it can be used effectively for what it was designed for.

Like a well-sharpened knife a sharp axe should have an edge keen enough to use for shaving. A sharp axe provides the user with effortless, efficient and enjoyable work. Many people do not realise that a dull axe is more dangerous to work with than a sharp one because it does not bite into the wood and glances off more easily. Most axes – even new ones – take from an hour to half a day to hand sharpen into proper shape. An axe should be sharpened regularly, preferably after every half hour of use.
The first stage of sharpening is removal of unwanted metal by file, grindstone or coarse whetstone. Coarse grinding tools work quickly but leave a rough surface. The second stage, using a medium whetstone, produces a finer edge. The third stage is a fine edge produced by the fine side of a whetstone and the final stage should produce a mirror finish using a hard, smooth stone called a hone.

New axe blades may require once-off thinning, which is accomplished with a file. The right file to use is a single-cut with second teeth on one side and double-cut bastard on the other. When the teeth are in parallel rows they are called single-cut. Double-cut teeth are crossed with a series of similar teeth. The “roughness” of a file is described as rough, bastard, second-cut, smooth and dead smooth. A mill bastard is a small tough file that leaves a smooth surface and skips least on hard spots.
Files must be well cared for to provide long service and should be separately wrapped in cloth when stored away. They should be protected from moisture and rust, which weaken the teeth. Any material that can clog the teeth, such as sap, oil or grease, should be avoided and the teeth should be cleaned with a wire brush after use. To prolong the life of a new file, fill the teeth with blackboard chalk, which reduces clogging.

Sharpening an axe with a file
Apply only enough downward pressure to achieve a light, even cut. Excessive downward pressure, especially on the backward stroke, can break file teeth and cause nicks in the axe blade. Hold the file handle in the palm with the forefinger pressing down lightly on the back of the file. On the return stroke lift the file from the axe surface (see Figure 1).

Severe nicks on the cutting edge of the blade may take hours to remove. File out a straight edge where there is a nick, which will regain its curvature with subsequent sharpening (see Figure 2).
Experienced axe users file the axe towards the blade as this ultimately provides a better blade shape and thinner edge burrs (see Figure 3). Filing in the same direction as the cutting edge is a safer option, however.
Draw filing provides an extended life to a worn out file (see Figure 4). The file handle is held in the palm of the hand over the poll of the axe and the opposite end is worked back and forth.

Sharpening an axe with a whetstone
When one is travelling light or in the bush, a whetstone is an appropriate tool for maintaining a sharp edge on the axe. A medium coarse stone will grind out any file serrations while fine stone grinds out the medium serrations to produce a workable edge. Round river stones provide a good natural alternative to commercial whetstones. A file works quicker than a stone, but wears out more quickly. When properly cared for a stone can last a lifetime, as it continually produces a new surface as the top one is worked away. In the space of a year you may end up wearing out a number of files, each of which is more expensive than a whetstone.

When sharpening with a stone it is held about the perimeter. However, take care that no fingertips project over the end as this is a sure way of cutting off the tip of a finger (see Figure 5). While applying light downward pressure the stone is moved in a circular motion along the cutting edge of the axe (see Figure 6). Use the stone in such a way that the surface wears out evenly.
Now you have a sharp axe and can get to work, but what happens if the handle breaks? In the next article we will discuss replacing a broken axe handle.