Figure 1: Detail of an axe head. (To enlarge click on image)

Figure 2: The correct method for driving on the axe head. (To enlarge click on image)

By Cleve Cheney

You are out in the bush and your axe handle breaks. One of the challenges of replacing an axe handle is to remove the old one, which can be a major undertaking.

The first thing to do is to pry out any metal wedges. If some of the handle remains, it can be thinned down and driven forward through the front of the eye. If inertia pounding does not work, support the head at the poll and blade over a V-notch sawn in a sound, upright stump while the handle is hammered through. It may help to dry the wood in the eye to shrink it. If this is done near a fire, be careful not to alter the temper of the axe head.

Never burn out the wood in the eye unless you know how to re-temper the axe blade. A metal drill bit may have to be used to remove wood from the eye. The bit should not cut into the inside of the eye, as the resulting damage could cause it to crack. The wood used to replace the broken handle should be strong, resilient and straight-grained (see Figure 1).

The strongest handle has a grain that runs parallel to the long axis of the handle. If the handle is too thick to suit your needs, a piece of broken glass can be used to shave excess wood away.
If a replacement handle has to be carved, it may be simpler to make a straight handle instead of a curved one.

Before fitting a new handle, clean and grind all parts of the axe head to perfection. File out any burrs or other irregularities on the blade and pole. If the interior of the eye has a lip or if the inside surface is excessively rough, it should be filed smooth.

The edges at the back of the eye, from which the handle is inserted, should be well rounded so no sharp corners press into the wood. This helps prevent breakage at this point. The eye is larger at the front end in order to better wedge the head on. If it is difficult to determine which end of the eye is wider, take careful measurements.

Place the axe head on the handle to determine how much excess wood to remove, allowing for a centimetre extra length. Rasp, shave or carve down the handle with broken glass for a close fit in the eye, taking care to remove an equal amount of wood from both sides so the axe head has the desired alignment with the handle. Fit the handle frequently to make sure you do not remove too much wood, which will result in a loose fit.

Saw a slot on the long axis of the handle for two-thirds of the depth that it would fit into the eye. If a vice is available, squeeze the slot closed and re-saw it to two-thirds of the slot’s depth. Repeat this once more, but to one-third of the depth to make a slightly tapered slot to accept the wedge (see Figure 1).

To drive on the head by inertia pounding, cut off the point of the knob of the handle, bevel the corners to prevent splitting and you can direct your pounding force in line with the handle for the best effect (see Figure 2).

The wedges can be any wood that will resist splintering when being driven into the slot. Wedges hold better if soaked in linseed oil. The wedge need not be in one piece, but must extend for the full length of the long axis of the eye so that the whole eye is tightly filled with wood. The wedges should be driven in as far as they will go. Trim off any protruding handle and wedge, leaving about half a centimetre. Cutting it flush with the metal of the eye does not allow it to hold well.

Drive in metal wedges between the interfaces of the wooden wedges and the handle wood, instead of crosswise to the long axis of the eye. This spreads the wood outward from the long axis rather than in line with it, and holds the head on more securely. The head may be soaked in linseed oil or anti-freeze to reduce wood shrinkage and help keep the head on better. Repeated soaking in water to make the wood swell to remedy a loose head weakens the wood so that the head breaks off at the handle.
In the next article we will look at axe etiquette and axe safety.