Figure 1: The sequence of cuts for removing a limb from the main trunk.

Figure 2: Using a protector log. Note that the woodsman positions himself on the opposite side of the end which he is cutting.

Figure 3: Cutting through a log.

Figure 4: Standing on a log to cut through it.

Figure 5: Making wedges for log splitting.

Figure 8: Using a chopping block.

By Cleve Cheney

We have seen thus far in this series on axecraft what a useful and often neglected tool an axe is, and that not much has been written about its correct and effective use. We conclude the series by looking at limbing (removing branches from a tree trunk) and sectioning (chopping it up into usable pieces) techniques.

As with other facets of axecraft, there are effective and ineffective ways to go about limbing and sectioning. More importantly, there are safe and unsafe ways as well.

Limbing
When a tree has been felled you have to remove the branches before you can get to work on the trunk. The most effective way to remove the limbs is to cut in the direction in which the branches grow. The sequence of cuts for removing thicker branches is illustrated in Fig 1. Make sure you stand on the opposite side of the trunk, as this is the safest position from which to work. Using a protector log is an additional precaution - see Fig 2. This is also a useful method when sectioning smaller logs into firewood.

Sectioning
When chopping a log into sections, it is easier to cut it half-way through from opposite sides rather than attempting to cut it all the way through from one side. See Fig 3. Stand as close to the log as the axe handle will permit, with legs well apart, taking care to not let your toes protrude under the log. Standing too far back might cause your swing to fall short and either hit the ground or your lower legs.

Standing on top of a log or steadying it with your foot may result in injury to your foot unless the point of impact of the axe is kept well below the sole of the shoe – see Fig 4. The cut width should be the same diameter as the log, with the cuts being made at a 450 angle to the centre line of the log. If the log is of a large diameter, start with a smaller notch and increase its size progressively. Otherwise the chips will dislodge with some difficulty.

The simplest way to split a log is to use wooden wedges. Fig 5 illustrates the way to make wedges for splitting large logs.
Place a number of wedges along the length of the log you wish to split and tap them in a little way at a time from one end to the other as illustrated in Fig 6.

Take care when splitting up smaller logs, as this is when accidents often happen. Make sure the support below the log lies directly under the point where the point of impact from the axe will be. Otherwise the log might flip up backwards and hit you in the face – see Fig 7.

A chopping block is a very useful aid when sectioning logs, as it provides a firm base of support and lifts the work up to a comfortable height. It also prevents the axe from hitting the ground and being damaged. When splitting logs, allow the heel of the axe blade to overhang the edge of the log slightly on impact as this splits the log more easily. Logs also split more easily from crown end (the top of the tree) to butt end (the roots of the tree) and either at 900 or parallel to the annual growth rings.

Hopefully this series on axecraft has been helpful and has shown our readers what a useful tool an axe is in general bushcraft and survival. In the next issue we will move on to a series of articles on knifecraft.

Figure 6: Using wedges to split a log.

Figure 7: Splitting logs safely.