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BUSHCRAFT: Axe Craft Part 1 |
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By Cleve Cheney Much is written about knives as a survival tool but very little can be found on one of the most useful of all bush and survival tools – the axe. Apart from fire, little else contributes more significantly to living comfortably in the bush than knowing how to use a well chosen axe. Not only is it a formidable weapon, but it also has many uses. No true bushman should be without an axe, which should form part of his standard equipment. Axes come in different shapes, weights and designs. The appearance of an axe does not necessarily give an indication of how well it will perform the tasks for which it is intended. However, the larger an axe, the safer it is and the less effort is required to use it. Axe design A strongly convex axe blade is good for splitting logs. A concave blade works well for removing limbs from the trunk or thick branch of a tree or for shaping. A straight blade is less likely to glance off a log. The slightly convex blade is a good general purpose axe. The heel of the axe blade should be narrow enough to set easily into wood that is being split. A blade 12 centimetres long should bulge out less than one centimetre from a straight line connecting the toe and heel of the blade, and the permissible point of contact when butt and face touch a flat surface should be between one third to one half of the blade length (see Figure 4). This way the weight of the head is fully behind the cutting edge of the blade and energy is not wasted through deflection. A cutting edge of 15 centimetres or more makes the axe too cumbersome. The eye of the axe is its weakest part. With a small eye the part of the handle entering the eye may be too thin to have the required strength. A large eye provides better strength to the handle. The metal around the eye is left more malleable than the blade to resist cracking. For this reason it is easy to distort the eye by hammering on the poll with another axe or by using the poll itself as a hammer. When it comes to the temper of the axe blade, it should be tough but not too hard. If it is too hard, it is brittle and can chip more easily, especially in cold weather, and is difficult to sharpen with an ordinary whetstone or file. A blade that is too soft, will not hold an edge for long and will have to be regularly sharpened. It will also wear out quickly. Sight in line with the axe blade and handle to determine the alignment of the head with the centre of the handle. Slight misalignment in the right direction may improve the performance of the axe for some users (see Figure 7). The balance of the axe is determined by the “throw” of the axe, which is the forward bulge of the handle within 15 to 20 centimetres of the head. If the axe is held at the throw in the flat of one hand and the end of the handle is held up or down by the other hand (see Figure 8), the axe head should lie flat or the blade point slightly upwards or downwards. The longer the bit or the lighter the poll, the more throw is required (a greater bulge of the handle). An axe that exceeds these parameters will feel unbalanced and as awkward as a pick. For an axe to work at optimum performance it should be sharp. Before we get into the uses of an axe, we need to learn how to sharpen it. Updated: Thursday, August 21, 2008 11:44 AM |