BUSHCRAFT: Axe Craft Part 1

Figure 1: Parts of an axe
Figure 2: Axe blade shapes
Figure 3: Example of a straight-bladed axe
Figure 4a (top) and 4b (bottom): Some of the design features of a good axe blade
Figure 5: Handle length for a general purpose bush axe
Figure 6: The direction of the wood grain in the handle
Figure 7: Axe head and handle alignment
Figure 8: Balance of the axe

By Cleve Cheney

Much is written about knives as a survival tool but very little can be found on one of the most useful of all bush and survival tools – the axe. Apart from fire, little else contributes more significantly to living comfortably in the bush than knowing how to use a well chosen axe. Not only is it a formidable weapon, but it also has many uses. No true bushman should be without an axe, which should form part of his standard equipment.
Few survival publications and books devoted to bushcraft afford due attention to this incredibly useful tool. In this series of articles we will look at axe craft – the skill in using an axe.

Axes come in different shapes, weights and designs. The appearance of an axe does not necessarily give an indication of how well it will perform the tasks for which it is intended. However, the larger an axe, the safer it is and the less effort is required to use it.
The downside of a heavy axe is that it is cumbersome to carry during bush travel. The size and weight of a good bush axe will end up compromising the work it is intended for and its ease of carry. If the axe is uncomfortable to swing, the head is probably too heavy, but if the head is too light, it lacks inertia and will not work efficiently and also require much effort to use. Ultra-light axes are best suited to experienced users as their light weight requires a strong swing which can be dangerous in inexperienced hands.
Before we go any further let’s learn something about the parts of an axe (see Figure 1).

Axe design
The shape of the axe’s head will determine its cutting characteristics. A blade with a slightly convex face rather than a flat or concave one releases easily from the cut, throws chips well and is stronger when used on very hard (or frozen) wood.
If the shape is too convex, the blade does not penetrate to maximum depth, resulting in a waste of energy. If the blade is too thin or concave, it tends to bind in the cut and requires an annoying tug to free it each time, which not only wastes energy but also loosens the handle over time. The ideal blade shape is one which is convex enough to effect easy release at maximum depth of the cut (see Figures 2 and 3).

A strongly convex axe blade is good for splitting logs. A concave blade works well for removing limbs from the trunk or thick branch of a tree or for shaping. A straight blade is less likely to glance off a log. The slightly convex blade is a good general purpose axe.

The heel of the axe blade should be narrow enough to set easily into wood that is being split. A blade 12 centimetres long should bulge out less than one centimetre from a straight line connecting the toe and heel of the blade, and the permissible point of contact when butt and face touch a flat surface should be between one third to one half of the blade length (see Figure 4). This way the weight of the head is fully behind the cutting edge of the blade and energy is not wasted through deflection.

A cutting edge of 15 centimetres or more makes the axe too cumbersome. The eye of the axe is its weakest part. With a small eye the part of the handle entering the eye may be too thin to have the required strength. A large eye provides better strength to the handle. The metal around the eye is left more malleable than the blade to resist cracking. For this reason it is easy to distort the eye by hammering on the poll with another axe or by using the poll itself as a hammer.
What is the ideal weight and length for a general purpose bush axe? The length of an ideal bush axe has a handle of a length that fits snugly into the armpit when the blade is held as shown in Figure 5. An axe with a handle shorter than this is called a hatchet. A good weight for a general purpose axe is about 1,5 kilograms and about 0,5 kilograms for a hatchet.

When it comes to the temper of the axe blade, it should be tough but not too hard. If it is too hard, it is brittle and can chip more easily, especially in cold weather, and is difficult to sharpen with an ordinary whetstone or file. A blade that is too soft, will not hold an edge for long and will have to be regularly sharpened. It will also wear out quickly.
A good axe handle should be neither too thick nor too thin and should fit comfortably in the hand. If it is too thick, it causes uncomfortable jarring with hard hits as it cannot flex. A handle that is too thin, however, will flex too easily. A handle that is too round in cross-section is awkward to hold and gives a poor indication as to where the leading edge of the blade should be. If too flat, it will be tiring to use as the handle will flex too much when the blade is pulled from its cut. For a straight handle the flatness has to be more pronounced to keep the axe from turning in the hand on impact. A good knob on the end of the axe handle signals the hand when the end of the handle is reached. The grain of axe handles should run parallel to the face of the axe blade, as shown in Figure 6.

Sight in line with the axe blade and handle to determine the alignment of the head with the centre of the handle. Slight misalignment in the right direction may improve the performance of the axe for some users (see Figure 7).

The balance of the axe is determined by the “throw” of the axe, which is the forward bulge of the handle within 15 to 20 centimetres of the head. If the axe is held at the throw in the flat of one hand and the end of the handle is held up or down by the other hand (see Figure 8), the axe head should lie flat or the blade point slightly upwards or downwards. The longer the bit or the lighter the poll, the more throw is required (a greater bulge of the handle). An axe that exceeds these parameters will feel unbalanced and as awkward as a pick.

For an axe to work at optimum performance it should be sharp. Before we get into the uses of an axe, we need to learn how to sharpen it.

Updated: Thursday, August 21, 2008 11:44 AM