Gavin C Margrate

In the previous article we examined the parallels between archery and black powder shooting and hopefully some archers have seen that there is space in their arsenal for a muzzleloader of sorts.

Before I continue, I need to make the following statement: since the deregulation of muzzleloading firearms two very distinct groups of shooters have emerged. The one is the group that can’t let go of their “nitro roots”. They have a need to work out the ballistics of their rifles, measure muzzle velocity, work out muzzle energy and all the info that goes with it.

The other group is the true traditionalists who attach more importance to the historic accuracy of the gun, the equipment and the hunt. There were no chronographs, sabot bullets with plastic attachments, telescopes and the like in the days of the muzzleloaders.

I belong to the latter group, so please forgive me for not referring to the technical detail that the shooters in the first group enjoy so much.

Most people who are considering buying a muzzleloader for the first time end up with a salesman behind the counter of the ever-decreasing number of gun shops who doesn’t really know much about muzzleloaders. I know this because not a week goes by that I don’t receive a call or two from someone who did not obtain the right information from their gun dealer. This is where most, if not all BP shooters come to the rescue. Most are willing and glad to help a new convert with their brand-new gun and all the goodies that go with the sport.
I am not going to discuss the choice of gun and calibre in this article because that subject needs to be dealt with on its own.

To shoot a muzzleloader you will need a set of basic tools. Essential are those associated with the powder. You need a container in which to carry the powder. This can be in the form of a brass or copper flask, or a horn of sorts. The choice really depends on personal preference but it has to be a safe and practical container. I prefer to use a horn. They look great and in my humble opinion add some sort of character to the rifle and the shooter. Be very careful of carrying powder in a plastic container because the static electricity that can be generated in certain types of plastic can cause the contents to ignite, with devastating consequences. The SAPS Explosives unit specifies that powder needs “to be transported in smaller suitable container such as non-sparking horns, flasks and powder measures between the place of storage and place of use”.
Always remember to have a certified copy of your black powder permit (SAPS document BPP) with you at all times when transporting or using black powder. Permits are available from the chief inspector of explosives, Private Bag X624, Pretoria 0001, tel no: 012 393 2763. Supt van Staden and his staff are extremely helpful and permits take about two weeks from date of application to issue. Thanks to all at the Explosives Unit for their excellent service.

You need to measure the right amount of powder needed for your gun. There are various ways of doing this, but by far the easiest is with an adjustable measure. Once you know what your preferred load is, a set measure made from a horn looks great and is also practical. A word of caution here: never load a gun directly from a flask with the measure supplied on the flask. There is always the chance a smouldering ember has been left in the barrel of the gun after a shot, which might ignite powder as it is poured into the barrel. If a flask full of powder were to be ignited the consequences could be fatal, so always pour powder into a measure from a flask and then into the barrel. Some shooters prefer to use a scale to pre-measure their powder into little plastic pill bottles before going shooting. This is not a bad idea if you intend shooting many shots. It saves time and the quantity of powder will be more consistent.

Next is the projectile. The choice of bullets is quite comprehensive. Here you have to decide how you want to use your gun and choose a bullet that suits the application. If shooting patch and ball, a pure cotton material will be needed to make patches to wrap around the balls. The patch needs to be lubricated with a suitable lubricant before being used. The best material is what our wives call unbleached calico, available from most haberdashery shops. It is pure cotton and exactly what you need. You might get some strange looks from the ladies in the material shop when you tell them what the cloth is for.

Bullets and balls can be carried in a number of ways, from bags made specifically for the task, to loose in a pocket. I shoot mainly patched balls so my ammo is carried in a bullet board specific to the calibre. This allows for the balls to be pre-prepared with the lubricated patch and ball in a neat and practical package. The ball is pushed from the board directly into the barrel of the gun with a shortstarter.

The projectile of choice is then introduced into the barrel and seated with a shortstarter. This is a short version of a ramrod and makes the whole loading process much easier. You have much more control over how you seat the projectile and it is also much safer. The projectile is rammed down onto the charge with a ramrod.

There are many documented incidents of shooters who have injured their hands with ramrods that have slipped off the top of the barrel and pierced their hands. I have actually seen this happen. Needless to say, a day’s shooting is spoiled when the need arises to rush off to the nearest hospital to have a hole in your hand stitched.

The gun is capped and ready to fire. There are various types of cappers available, from a basic leather disc that holds the caps in place, to fancy engraved ones that are more for show than anything else. A very popular type is the Inline Capper that holds between eight and 20 caps. Again, practicality and personal preference will determine which type is used. The main thing is that the caps are accessible and won’t get lost.

When out hunting it is important to have all the accessories close at hand. The easiest way to carry everything is in a “possibles bag”. It should be big enough to carry all that might be needed in the veld and be made of a soft material, preferably leather. Noise is always a factor when out hunting so be sure that the contents of the bag are arranged so that they don’t rattle around.

There are a few other tools that are not only handy, but without which a day’s shooting can be spoilt. If shooting patch and ball, a patch knife is essential. A ball puller is a must in case a charge does not go off and the need arises to pull a bullet from the barrel of a gun. A patch puller is also handy for removing stuck cleaning patches from your gun.

A few other handy tips:
Always ‘snap a cap’ before you load the first charge into your gun at the beginning of a shoot. This ensures that there is no oil or other obstruction in the nipple. Point the muzzle of the gun at a sandy patch and fire off a cap. If all is well, you should see a puff of dust being disturbed. If not, check to see that the nipple on your gun is not obstructed.

Swab the barrel of your gun after every five shots or so. This removes fouling from the barrel and enables easier loading of subsequent bullets.

Use a good-quality lubricant. This not only makes loading easier, but also makes the cleaning process less bothersome.

Remember that all safety rules that apply to other firearms also apply to muzzleloaders.
I hope this information will be of use to all aspiring black powder shooters. If you have any queries please feel free to call us. If we can’t help, the chances are good that we will be able to refer you to someone who can. All of the tools and accessories mentioned in the article are available from Gavin and Nadia at Bushbuck Treading on tel: 0824693236, or email plumcrazy@absamail.co.za.

In the next article we discuss cleaning your muzzleloader, which is not as bad as most believe!